BJJ has been going well. I feel I’m progressing, and retaining the technique knowledge. There are quite a few times when we’ll be rolling and I’ll remember some little thing I learned, or some way to move (often times this thinking is a few seconds late too ;) ).

I’ve been able to complete more of the initial warm up as well. The first couple weeks it was pretty rough, and now I think i’m building up to that endurance level. I also noticed i’m not so winded right after the warm up and into the technique training. I figured this would happen I just knew it would take some time.

Last night Mark and I removed both the block and transmission (Standing-in-engine-bay pictures coming soon!). My previous post stated that I think cleaning up the engine bay is going to be the worst part, but after looking over everything it’s not going to be too bad. Almost half of the bay is covered in black insulation, so really I only have to paint the other half (Fortunately that half doesn’t have too many hoses and wires either!)

Yesterday I ordered a new exhaust header, bolts, O2 bolts, clutch slave rebuild kit, flywheel bolts, rod bolts and nuts, and main crankshaft bolts. Today my crankshaft hopefully will arrive at O’Reilly. I believe my last part purchase will be connecting rods. I’m sure there are some hoses and vacuum lines that need to be replaced, but i’ll deal with that as I come to it.

There are some things I want to do before I actually start reassembly . I’ll try and list out everything I can think of here.

  1. Block
    1. Remove single broken bolt
    2. Install Freeze Plugs
    3. Wipe engine down (Been sprayed with WD40 a couple times)
    4. Tape off non-painted areas
    5. Paint block with high heat engine paint
      1. Duplicolor has this type of paint, i’m thinking about an “aluminum” color
  2. Muffler heat shield
    1. Clean off all surface rust (Wire wheel)
    2. Paint with a high heat paint (Probably black, this part isn’t visible, but the paint will inhibit future rust)
  3. Transmission
    1. Clean off all surface dirt (Wire wheel – going to be a major PITA)
    2. Clean input shaft area, clean clutch fork, install new throw out bearing
    3. Paint (Probably same color as engine, aluminum color)
  4. Engine Bay – The worst part
    1. The engine bay is painted red (original color of car) and is FILTHY. I’m wanting to repaint my car black, and I also want the bay to be black. My plan (for now) is to use rustoleum gloss black enamel in a spray can. The spray cans have a really good output spray, and the enamel is self leveling. Removing and/or moving misc. hoses around to paint is going to be the hardest part.
  5. Water Pump
    1. Do I paint it or leave it the stock metal appearance? I watched a video of a GM water pump being sprayed with Duplicolor engine paint, and it looked pretty nice. Not sure on this one…
  6. Notes / Thoughts
    1. The worst part is going to be cleaning and painting the engine bay I think. I’m not really pressured to get this project done fast, however I am doing it in the garage of the home owner I live with. I got his approval to start this project (and make a big mess!), and I simply don’t want to make this a long, drawn out project. I need to be actively working on this, which so far I have been.
    2. One of the orders I placed (from KBox) will take 9-12 business day’s to arrive, and one of the parts in that order I will need for reassembly, so I’ve at least got two weeks before final assembly can begin back in the car.
    3. I just need to remind myself to take things one step at a time :)

So the motor in my stock MR2 decided to bite the bullet. I believe an oil ring on one of the pistons let go, as I was leaking oil out of my tail pipe (and plus the sound of piston slap rang loud at low rpms). After removing the head, the head gasket is blown on piston #4, and the tops of the pistons are coated in gunk and grime. I will confirm the oil ring after removing the block in the next couple of days.

Because of this, it’s basically accelerated my new engine time table to… well now! I have now purchased a full gasket kit, new clutch kit, new exhaust setup, misc. new bolts. I am also having the flywheel resurfaced, getting the head rebuilt (including valve reseating, and redecking) and cleaned, and throughly cleaning the engine bay (including parts I remove from the engine and transmission).

This morning I started receiving the first few boxes of my orders from Rock Auto! What a way to wake up, to new car parts :) I’ve also placed an order with KBox.ca for additional parts.

My new parts purchases include:

  • Walker Exhaust System (Non welded system, 100% bolt together)
    • Y-Pipe
    • Catalytic Converter
    • Muffler
    • Gaskets
  • Beck/Arnley Clutch Kit
  • Bosch O2 Sensor
  • Sealed Power complete gasket kit
  • Beck/Arnley Head Bolt Kit
  • Dayco Serpentine Belt
    • This is for the water pump and alternator
    • I am removing the A/C system, no belt required!
  • Airtext Fuel Injector O-Ring Kit
    • For all 4 injectors
  • Sealed Power Brass Expansion Plug Set
    • Or also known as freeze plugs
  • Toyota Crank Key
    • New key for the crankshaft
  • Oil Filter Housing Seal kit
    • Also known as the oil filter sandwhich
  • Power window gear
    • This is the replacement main gear for my drivers side. It is a commonly broken piece on AW11′s. One of the teeth on the gear break, causing the window to roll up in stages. This new gear is a modern styled nylon – much stronger.
  • T-top Eccentric Anti-Leak Guides
    • These are adjustable guides to help with the leak issue (also common on all t-top cars)

Additional Items I have to purchase:

  • Connecting rod bolts
  • Connecting rod bolt nuts
  • Crankshaft bearing cap bolts
  • Flywheel bolts
  • Crankshaft with 42mm rod journals
  • Silvertop Rods with 42mm rod connecting point and 20mm wrist pin holders

Tonight was great. We went over some basics for quite a while: Guard pass 1 and 2. Guard pass 1 is the typical pass where you break their closed guard, and pass under the leg. Guard pass 2 is where you are unable to break the closed guard, so you make yourself skinny in their guard and slam the legs down, and work your legs over.

After this we practiced the standing guillotine defense for a few minutes. This involves wrapping your arm around their shoulder, grabbing the opposite knee cap, walking around the knees, bumping, and going to the ground.

I’ve not been posting as regularly in the BJJ category, I think because sometimes the classes have quite a few techniques we learn, each one getting slightly more difficult. Also I believe it is because when I get home I’m dead tired, and am too busy at work typically.

Tonight we covered several techniques: Triangle, Tricks for getting the Triangle, Side mount Kimura, Side mount Kimura defense, Side mount to north/south kimura, Side mount to north/south kimura defense, and then something like side mount to north/south kimura defense defense. Each one played off the other, and for now it’s going to be quite a bit to try and describe each one.

Mark has been attending too, and last night he really seemed to enjoy it when we did the final roll when someone was attemping a kimura and was put off balance.

These are separate moves with the same initial setup.

#33 Sit up Sweep from Guard 

You are laying on your back. Opponent is in your closed guard. Opponent is moving, and finally sits straight up. You place both feet on the ground, pinning opponents feet. Twist upper body in one direction (almost a minor shrimp out), and place elbow directly down on ground. Begin pushing yourself up, placing your hand in the same spot your elbow was on the ground.

Position yourself as sitting in opponents lap, all your weight pushing them down and slightly back. Wrap your free hand over opponents opposite shoulder, making a fist, and hooking under their armpit. Continue driving your hips forward into opponent, pushing them the direction your hand is on the floor, and spinning around. (If opponent places their hand back behind to catch themselves at this point, please see #34 below).

You will topple opponent over, taking the mount, and be 180 degrees around from where you started.

#34 Kimura from Guard

Do setup as described above. If opponent places hand behind them to brace the fall, sit firmly in their lap, take your hand that’s on the ground and grab their wrist supporting them (the one on the ground). Work your hips out from opponents lap and lay them face down to the ground. At this point you should be straight across their shoulders, one leg over their back, with your feet hooked on their far side, opponents arm behind their back wrapped in your arms.

Wrap arms tightly around opponents shoulder area, keeping firm grip on wrist. To finish the kimura the opponents upper arm should be straight out from his body, and 90 degrees down bent at the elbow (An upside down U for reference). Crank opponents wrist upwards while keeping the elbow close to you for the shoulder crank/kimura.

As comical as this one may seem, it is indeed on the list, and I sucked at it :) . The basic belt tie is:

  1. Find center of belt (Both ends are even)
  2. Place center of belt on front of waist
  3. Wrap belt around body on both sides
  4. Tuck one end of belt under both layers and pull it straight up (leave other end hanging down)
  5. Fold the tucked end straight down over both waist loops
  6. Take the original hanging end and put it behind the wrapped-over loop
  7. Create a knot of the wrapped ends and pull snug
  8. It should look like two loops going in and two loops going out of the knot

I’ve started polishing a spare intake manifold I have from another 4AGE I purchased. The intake is aluminum, and when it was cast originally it is covered in small pit marks and casting lines.

My goal is to polish the plenum and clean the underside well. So far I’ve managed to remove about 95% of the pits and casting marks from the plenum area. This was easily accomplished by an 80 grit sand paper wheel (drill attachment). I’ve been able to sand certain areas in different directions and seen a much more reflective result.

Along with the sand paper wheel purchase, I obtained 320 and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. The next step is going to be sanding out the marks from the 80 grit wheel. Supposedly at this point I will see the results starting to surface, so to speak ;)

Opponent has gotten you in a leg locked triangle. Just before the opponent pulls your arm across his body, you slam your elbow down to the ground, grab his lapel/gi in the armpit area, and spread your base slightly wide to the right. The opponent will now attempt to lift your elbow from the ground to finish the triangle. As soon as they reach for the elbow, take your left hand and grab opponents lapel/collar deep near the neck (as if applying a choke). When you have the lapel/collar in your left hand, position opponent straight again. At this point, stand up from your base, stack the opponent to the ground. Hop around opponent to their side. When almost perpendicular, raise your head to the sky and their leg will fall to the ground, giving you top/side mount control.